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Culture History of Surfing: From Ancient Goddesses to Malibu

Elmer Powell

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Published in Women On Waves: A Culture History Of Surfing From Ancient Goddesses And Hawaiian Queens To Malibu Movie Stars And Millennial Champions

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Surfer Riding A Wave With Sunset In The Background Women On Waves: A Culture History Of Surfing From Ancient Goddesses And Hawaiian Queens To Malibu Movie Stars And Millennial Champions

Women on Waves: A Culture History of Surfing—From Ancient Goddesses and Hawaiian Queens to Malibu Movie Stars and Millennial Champions

by Jim Kempton

4.6 out of 5

Language	:	English
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Print length	:	304 pages

Surfing, an exhilarating water sport that embodies freedom, adventure, and athleticism, has captivated hearts and imaginations for centuries. Its origins trace back to ancient cultures, where surfing held both practical and spiritual significance. Join us on a journey through the rich history of surfing, from its humble beginnings to its modern-day evolution as a global phenomenon.

Ancient Roots: Surfing's Precursors

The earliest evidence of surfing-like activities dates back to ancient Polynesia, where Polynesian peoples developed the art of riding waves on wooden boards. These boards, known as "olo," were used for transportation, fishing, and recreation.

Scholars believe that surfing may have emerged as a form of religious practice, with ceremonies and rituals surrounding the construction and use of olo boards. In particular, the legendary figure of the Hawaiian surfing goddess Kanaloa is revered as the patron of surfers, guiding them through the waves.

Hawaiian Royalty: Surfing as a Sport for the Elite

As surfing spread throughout the Hawaiian islands, it became a popular pastime among the ruling class. Hawaiian royalty, particularly the ali'i, saw surfing as a way to demonstrate their prowess and athleticism.

During the 19th century, surfing experienced a resurgence in popularity, thanks in part to the patronage of European missionaries and travelers. Missionaries introduced metal tools and nails to the islands, which greatly improved the construction and durability of surfboards.

British Explorers and the Rise of Tourism

In the early 20th century, British explorers and adventurers brought surfing to the attention of the western world. Duke Kahanamoku, a legendary Hawaiian surfer, played a pivotal role in promoting the sport internationally through his exhibitions and competitions.

As tourism took off in Hawaii, surfing became a major attraction for visitors seeking adventure and exotic experiences. Resorts and surf camps sprang up along the coastline, catering to a growing number of enthusiasts.

Modern Surfing: From Malibu to the World Stage

In the 1950s and 1960s, surfing experienced an explosion in popularity in California, particularly in the coastal communities of Malibu and Huntington Beach. The development of new technologies, such as fiberglass surfboards and wetsuits, made surfing more accessible and enjoyable for the average person.

Surf culture became synonymous with the beach lifestyle, characterized by sun, sand, and social gatherings. Iconic surfers like Miki Dora and Tom Curren became symbols of the sport's rebellious and adventurous spirit.

Today, surfing has evolved into a global phenomenon, with surfers of all ages and skill levels riding waves in every corner of the earth. The World Surf League (WSL) organizes professional surfing competitions and events, showcasing the talents of elite surfers and inspiring aspiring athletes.

Surfing: A Legacy of Heritage and Innovation

From its humble origins in ancient Polynesia to its modern-day status as a global sport, surfing has come a long way. Along the journey, it has absorbed influences from diverse cultures and intertwined with art, music, and fashion.

Surfing embodies the human desire for connection with nature, adventure, and personal growth. Whether you're a seasoned surfer or just dreaming of hitting the waves, the history of surfing offers a rich tapestry of inspiration and awe.

Women on Waves: A Culture History of Surfing—From Ancient Goddesses and Hawaiian Queens to Malibu Movie Stars and Millennial Champions

by Jim Kempton

4.6 out of 5